74. Cleaning again and again

And no, this won't be my last time to visit cleaning. First, I don't think there is one perfect cleaning method. Two, each gun/ammo combo may be different. And I suspect a gun ammo combination requirments may change as a barrel wears.

My previous two Shilen barrels gave up since my last article on cleaning. What does that mean? They stopped shooting with the accuracy needed to compete near the top of ARA. The "Younger" just abruptly quit shooting. One week it was accurate, the next not. I spent many months denying this. Since my other gun was shooting I felt no urgency. But eventually after trying several brands of ammo and a number of lots, different tuning procedures etc. The barrel showed wear on the side, not at 6 oclock. I gave up. I replaced the barrel. The new barrel seemed pretty accurate, but all over the place in the wind. I replaced it again. This time Ken Specht of Ober Gun Works, put on one of Shilens 4 groove ratchet rifled barrels, one in 16 twist, number 6 contour. This barrel seems to be working fine.

My other gun, "The Elder", Gave up slower. I had noticed for some time that bullets did not engage the lands when chanbered. Holes in the target were oval shaped. Yet the gun was shooting better than ever. Only needed to point it in the general direction of the target to get a hundred. Made me wonder how much is skill and how much having a great gun in benchrest. Also, the discussions we see about bullets going to sleep quickly. The quicker a bullet goes to sleep the less wind effects it. Well I don't think bullets ever went to sleep with this gun in its last great year. On talking with others I found a number reported guns that shot great yet left oval bullet holes. There alot I don't know about this that I wish I did. Shooting like this I had two 2350's, one with a breeze and over 40 2000's last year. Then slowly it seemed harder and harder to get great scores. Finally I had to realize it was gone. First I tried a new barrel that seemed fine in the wind but inaccurate. Next I sent it to Butch Hongisto of Sullivan Missouri. Butch put on a mate to the barrel on the "Younger". He also rebedded the action. Workmanship looks great and the gun shoots.

So where does this lead to cleaning? Well both barrels lives were shortened by cleaning. But do you want your barrel to last a long time or do you want to win? I mentioned in my last article on cleaning "The Elder" I changed to two dry patches between targets. I shot some 800 rounds like this. A bore scope showed no leading with Midas. But in the off season I found with indoor testing that although the barrel settled a few shots quicker with two dry patches. Its accuracy was not quite as good. I don't remember now and I'm not taking the time to look it up. But with two dry patches I could get 8 groups of just under .2 inch. Cleaning thourghly with a brush, groups were in the .18 range.

I have had my own bore scope since the middle of last season. With my new barrels, both finished with different reamers I find just 6 strokes in and out of Shooters Choice Lead Remover takes care of the lead. First I do 3 patches of SCLR to get most of the crude out, then the six brush strokes, then two dry patches. Both are shooting great. It takes about 4 shots for each barrel to stabilize. So I shoot 5 before going to the sighter. I typically shoot 5 to 8 on the sighter. Then the record 25. Sometimes I shoot a few more sighters during the record string. 45 shots tops. Now I need to see how many rounds the barrels will shoot before needing cleaning. Until I proove otherwise I will clean each target

I see occationally some ideas thrown around that I avoid. One is shooting plated bullets to remove lead. I could test this with a bore scope, but know way am I putting plated bullets in my good barrels. I know of no top shooter who has ever told me they do this.

Cleaning with a pull through string. Never saw anyone at an ARA Match do this. Seems like it should work for some guns, but if it was so great I'm sure top shooters would be using it.

Avoid cleaning because it takes so many rounds for barrel to settle down. Either barrel is not a fine match barrel or you need to try something else. I Remember when I started shooting benchrest I used my old standby, Hoppe's number 9. It took 25 rounds of Eley for the barrel to settle down. I tried other methods until I found a method that gives quicker settling.

Return to top of page

73. Suhl 150 trigger

We try to translate it in English (after this text following). Maybe it
is o.k.
We are able to deliver some spare parts of the model 150 Standard, e.g.
a complete trigger mechanism.
Regards
WTS Gerdie

Screw 1:
adjustment of the way of the let-off point.
(Convenient adjusted from the manufacturer)

Screw 2
by turning to the left decreasing of the trigger weight,
by turning to the right increasing of the trigger weight
(adjustment range/sector 200p = 200g = 3086 grains to 600 p = 600g =
9259 grains)

Screw 3
adjustment (horizontal) of the trigger leaf

Screw 4
by turning to the left increasing of first stage weight,
by turning to the right decreasing of the first stage weight

Screw 5
by turning to the left increasing/ extension of trigger slack,
by turning to the right decreasing/ shortening of trigger slack

(below the picture 9)
the trigger mechanism is also adjustable as a single stage trigger
(without trigger slack) by repeated turning to the right of screw 5 to a
marked stop.
Thanks to Fred J.

Return to top of page

72. BSA Martini MKIII trigger adjustment

4/13/01 PDEAL tells me the MKIII trigger is the same as the MKII

Adjustment of the trigger
Before Leaving the factory the trigger is set to a pull-off weight of just over 3 lb., but provision is made and an Allen key provided to carry out subsequent adjustment. It is not necessary to remove the action.

Two Allen screws are located in the front of the trigger guard and locked in position by two locking screws, one on each side of the guard. To lighten the trigger pull slacken the screw which locks the adjusting screw marked "T" with the Allen key provided. Turn the screw "T" in an anti-clockwise direction until the desired weigth is achieved. Re-lock the adjusting screw and re-test the trigger weight. If the trigger weight is to be increased the above procedure should be followed, but the adjusting screw "T" turned in a clockwise direction. A minimum trigger weight of less than 1/2 lb., can be obtained. It should be remembered, however, that where a very light trigger weight is being used the rifle must be handled with care and the cocking lever closed gently.

The unmarked screw in the guard controls the backlash (the amount of trigger movement after the release). To decrease backlash first cock the rifle and then unlock the screw and turn it in a clockwise direction. This should be done 1/8 of a turn at a time, testing after each movement to ensure that the trigger will release. After the adjustment the locking screw must be retightened and the elt off retested.

DO NOT attempt under any circumstances to oilstone the sear engagement faces. Great care has been exercised at the factory to produce correct sear engagement. Hand stoning will upset the precision with which these components have been manufactured. This may produce an unconsistant let-off and, where a light trigger let-off is being used, could cause premature firing.

Return to top of page

70. Lapua Dealers

Rich:
Here is some information sent to me by K/P
You may want to post it to your site under ammo sources.
Fred J
Some of Lapua's biggest distributors in the US for the .22 LR Ammunition are:
Most you can buy direct from. There may be many smaller ones, but these are your best shot.
SINCLAIR INT'L
(219)493-1858

BRUNO'S SHOOTERS SUPPLY
(623) 587-7641

CHAMPION'S CHOICE
(615) 793-4066

CHAMPION SHOOTERS SUPPLY
(614) 855-1603

HOEHN SALES
(636) 745-8144

RUSS HAYDON'S SHOOTERS SUPPLY
(253) 857-7557

Return to top of page

69. New Hall rimfire action

New Rim-Fire Action
by
HALLMfg.

Updated 1/9/02

The action is 1 3/8 diameter by 7 inches long and is made of 416 stainless steel, the locking lugs are made of 4140. Both are heat - treated.

Available with right or left port, but only right bolt Port is large enough to get your finger into it. Anschutz or Suhl type feed ramp. Setup with a trigger housing which uses 40X Remington type triggers.

7/8" x 14 thread by .950" long. Barrel can be shouldered out on the front or on the inside of the action this allows you to use as small as a 7/8" diameter barrel or as large as 1.350".

Action can be glued-in or bedded conventionally

Back of action offers a very large recoil lug area

Price: $ 975.00 Shipping & Ins $ 15.00

Update - Both ports are now the same size and there is a integral recoil. Also the locking lugs are now tool steel for longer life.

Return to top of page

68. Suhl 150 date of manufacture

Under the barrel, just in front of the action you will find a stamped date with month and year.

Return to top of page

65. Removing the bolt on the Remington Model 37

Open the bolt and pull it back and just behind the the ejector you will see a hole in the action. Take a small allen wrench and push down you then can remove the bolt. You will have to do the same thing to install the bolt.

Thanks to EAL

Return to top of page

64. Eating and Shooting

I feel eating too soon before shooting 3P or prone can adversly effect my scores and I suspect the same with silhouette. I have demonstrated this in dry firing just before eating or after. Or before or after drinking coffee or tea. However shooting while hungry can be distracting for me also. For me, ideally is to eat moderately or lightly two to three hours prior to shooting and to become hungry right after my final shot. Experiment yourself with this. I can see a signifcant increase in gun movement If I ate or drank prior to shooting.

Return to top of page

62. Anshutz trigger

The following Anshutz site has info on adjusting Anshutz triggers:

Anshutz trigger

Thanks to Larry

Return to top of page

61. Silhouette scopes and Rifles

This is a topic I know little about but I steal information easily.

Manufacturer  model        approx.
                           price
Leupold       6.5-20x EER


Manufacturer  model        approx.   Class
                           price
Anshutz       54MS                   Standard
Sako          Finnfire               Hunter

Return to top of page

60. Left Handed Rifles - 3P, Prone, Benchrest, Silhouette

Being a left hander myself, it is difficult for a lefty in most everything but bowling. I would recommend any left-handed youngster be tested for eye dominance and even try shooting with the left eye shielded before going the left-hand route. I myself have a slight dominance of the right eye and did not have any trouble learning right-handed. It has allowed me the freedom of having more options with shotguns and rifles. And afterall, I support the gun with my strong arm! But if that fails, it is hard to find left handed rifles. Here is a list. Please help me add to it.

3P and Prone
Manufacturer  model  approx.
                     price
Anshutz       1903L   840.00
Anshutz       1912L  1935.00
Anshutz       1913L  2480.00
Anshutz       2013L  2795.00
Savage        900TR   428.00

Benchrest
Turbo
Time Precision

Both of the above actions are made with the bolt and/or port on either side. But a right handed gun has some advantages to the lefty from the bench.

Silhouette
Manufacturer  model  approx.
                     price

Somebody give me a left-hand to recommend, Heck I'll also start a silhouette section for right-hand if I knew what to recommend. Anybody want to tell me what are the most popular, winning guns?

Return to top of page

59. Torque wrenches

I thought of naming this 'Torque wrenches I've known and loved' but Since I've only used two torque wrenches of the inch pound variety I thought the title may lead you to think I know alot about torque wrenches. I don't. An I'm not sure I love the one I have. But it has been very important to me and shooting.

I have a KD Tools 1/4 inch drive Micrometer type torque wrench with a range of 30-200 inch pounds graduated in 1 inch pound increments. I think a 15 - 70 inch pound range would be more useful.

From my vary limited use of this wrench (2 guns) it appears 35 - 50 inch pounds for a pillar bedded in a fiber glass stock is the useful range for my guns. I understand with a wood stock and no pillars (factory) that less would be used.

My guns are sensitive to one inch pound, thats why I recommend one inch pound increment. Some have indicated I may have a bedding problem my guns being so sensitive. That maybe true, but as long as they will hold a setting for months and the setting doesn't change, I don't care. To me a problem would be if a gun shot great at 40 inch pounds one week and 42 the next, that would be a problem.

Return to top of page

58. Glue-in Vs pillar bedding

This was a topic on benchrest.com rimfire board a week or so ago. I hoped it would create some discussion, but there were only a few replies. First let me say I believe only a few guns in ARA are glue-ins. But it is not easy to spot a glue-in for me if the job is done correctly without a lot of glue slopped around. Looking at the bottom of the stock for action screws is not a valid check is some do both. My discussion here is with fiberglass stocks only as they are predominate in benchrest.

Why glue-in? Two answers Ive received are you don't need to worry about action screws coming loose and its easier.

Why Pillar bed? Pillar bedding is more substantial than action screws through the stock. Pillar bedding allows "tuning" of the action screws to the lot of ammo being used. This does not replace the need for a barrel tuner.

My experience has been with pillar bedding only. With my two guns I have not had any problems with the action screw torque changing over time or in different weather. Perhaps with a wood stock this might occur. Torque range on my guns is from 35 to 55 inch pounds. I have not had any lot that shoots well at under 37 inch pounds and over 50 inch pounds does not seem to have any effect on tuning. Thats how I came up with this range.

Word is this "tuning" does not work on Anshutz 2000 actions with 4 action screws. I am not familiar with this action but am concerned that if three action screws are set to a specific torque, tightening the forth will change the torque on one or more of the first three. I'd like to know more about this before trying a 4 bolt action.

Return to top of page

57. Removing bolt from Winchester 52

Old 52C
Open the bolt, hold the trigger back and close the bolt - lets the striker go forward same as dry firing - then press forward on the back of the trigger, which will hold down the sear, and hold forward trigger pressure while you withdraw the bolt. you might have to reach in w/ finger- small tool- and put down pressure on the sear to allow it to trip and, while holding the sear down, put forward pressure on the trigger, same as for removal, and reinstall the bolt. - Thanks to shotsum

Return to top of page

56. More on rimfire barrel cleaning

Be sure and check out Lilja and Shilen web sites. Both give recommendations on rimfire barrel cleaning. You can find links to their web sites on my Phone numbers, e-mail addresses and web sites! Contact listing

Return to top of page

54. Federals reply to the Chernicky etc. patent

Summary from the article in Shooters News - I highly recommend reading the entire article - A letter to John Gammuto from Mike Larsen, Manager Federal Cartridge Company

LB stated the Chernicky / Harwood patent was capable of 1/4 minute accuracy at 100 yards. This was not true. This ammo did not exist and was a concept only. Federal was unable obtain this accuracy building ammo to the patents specifications.

Mr. Larsen discusses the trade-offs of group dispersion Vs wind drift and thus 1000A Vs 1000B ammo.

Return to top of page

53. Chernicky / Harwood Patent

From time to time reference to the Chernicky Harwood patent for an improved rimfire ammo comes up in discussion on different Internet shooting boards or magazine articles. The patent (5,275,108) can be found at the US Patent web site. Below is a link to save you time. also near the top of the article is a link to references that will take you to pictures and drawings referenced in the patent:

This patent was tested and researched by Federal who claims it did not perform up to its claims. I will have more detail on this in the next few days in another entry.

Return to top of page

43. Coreollis and Silhouette - Gyroscopic Precision

Some discussion has occurred over whether a bullet from a right hand twist barrel drifts to the right and why. For those who shoot only one distance this is probably of no concern. But those who shoot varying distances such as Silhouette this is. No one seems to dispute whether a bullet drifts to the right, but as to why. Is it the coreoliis effect? I have came to the conclusion it is Gyroscopic Precision. This is the most logical of the explanations I have heard. What I am talking about is that if a shooter is sighted in at 50 yards and then moves to 100 yards the bullet will not only shoot low (we are talking rimfire here) but will be to the right. This could be important consideration shooting at a ram silhouette.

Return to top of page

42. Wind drift and humidity

The air is more dense when humid, therefore any wind will have more effect on bullet flight than when the air is dryer. Also when very humid with no wind the bullet will seem to dart about due to varying air pockets. High humidity with no wind can cause good shooters to cuss , sometimes, with great vigor. thanks to GA.

Water vapor as a gas is actually less dense than dry air. Which is why steam rises. Also since air is mostly nitrogen (N2) and oxygen (O2) and water vapor is (H2O) then for water vapor to be heavier than air H2 would have to be heavier than either N1 or O1. I don't have the reference book handy at the moment but it's not even close. But Water vapor does tend to be a whole lot less stable and will form density variations and mirage. Thanks to Vibe

Return to top of page

40. Remington 540/541

The first in these series was the 540X, a single shot target rifle with a prone/position style stock, followed by the 540XR, a much improved stock for position shooting. This was an intermediate level competition rifle designed to replace the 513T. The 541S was the deluxe sporter built on the same action. It was discontinued around the late 80's for lack of sales. It was brought back a few years later as the 541T with some cosmetic changes. Some time later, the 541T HB (heavy barrel) was offered. The 541X was a gov't. contract rifle to replace the 513T and it is a rather Spartan version. Unlike the others, it does not have an adjustable trigger (but you can send it to Rem. and they will install one for a modest price), it is not drilled and tapped or grooved for scope, and like the 541S and early 541T, it only has one action screw (which can be remedied). The stock on it was made from a left over batch of 513T blanks and not designed nearly as well as the 540X. However the barrel and action are essentially the same as the 540X and 541T HB and should be as good once a good trigger is installed and adequate sights are mounted. You could use this rifle for smallbore prone, position shooting, smallbore silhouette. It was not however, Rem.'s top line gun (the 40X) and will not likely compete well in matches where exacting accuracy is paramount, so it may be put to better use in types of competition where shooting skill is a larger part of the score, i.e. silhouette & position shooting. Thanks to Bugs

The 540 and old style 541 triggers have both a weight of pull adjustment screw and overtravel adjustment screw. The sear adjustment screw is not on the newer 541 triggers. Also the sear adjusting screw has too course threads for fine adjustment. The sear adjustment screw housing can be retapped to replace the 6x48 threads per inch screw with an 8x80. The trigger weight of pull spring can be replaced with a lighter one. The Sear spring can also be replaced with a lighter spring and install a "captured ball" in the spring. It looks like a machine screw small enough to fit inside the sear spring. The ball then rides on the trigger instead of the spring. This gives much smoother trigger operation. But as Bugs says part of this work can be done on the new 541's by returning to Remington for a factory adjustable trigger. Also I understand Canjar or Timminey makes a trigger for this gun.

Return to top of page

37. Anschutz Achiever 1451STR

I had an opportunity to test an Anschutz Achiever yesterday. It is also called the 1451STR. It is single shot whereas the 1451R is a repeater. The trigger was about 3-4 pounds but very crisp and did not seem that heavy. From the bench shooting Eley Match Extra it shot under 1/2 inch groups although I didn't measure them. I understand you can get a trigger of several ounces for this gun from Anschutz for about $165 but I have not checked this out.

My wife who is small of stature tested the gun today from the prone position and found it functioned very well and the trigger was fine for her. I think it should be a great rifle for a person of small stature or a youngster for 3P or Prone. The 1451 should have enough accuracy for Silhouette. But it is not a benchrest gun. I have never seen a rifle with the 64 action do well in ARA benchrest. Also as with most Anschutz rifles there are lots of options available for this gun including hooked butt plate and butt plate spacers.

Return to top of page

33. Dry firing a rimfire

We all have need to dry fire a rimfire occasionally. Prone and position shooters do it a lot as dry firing is legitimate practice. Many rimfire rifles can be damaged by dry firing on an empty chamber. The firing pin hits on the edge of the chamber, pinning the chamber so a round can no longer be inserted. Other rimfire rifles have a steel pin in the bolt preventing the firing pin from going far enough forward do damage the chamber. The firing pin hits on this pin. I do not like this as the steel firing pin is hitting on steel like hammer. It would seem that eventually the firing pin would be damaged. I prefer on all rimfire rifles to use once fired cases placed in the chamber. The case is softer than the firing pin and absorbs the shock. But using lots of these fired cases in position shooting practice, I noticed hard black grit, something like sand in the chamber and throat of the rifle. On tapping a few empty cases on a table it is easy to see that is where the grit is coming from. It contains some fouling but appears to be a primmer residue. To fire a gun with this in the barrel would be like firing a gun with sand in the barrel. Also my Martini which never fails to extract and eject a live fired round, sometimes has one of these spent rounds stick. I decided to try cleaning some of this empty brass. Running in through a tumbler cleaned the exterior ok but did nothing to the interior. I then ran the brass through a Dillons media separator with a paper towel in the bottom. With thousands of cases banging against one another the fouling was slowly removed. Now my barrel no longer gets dirty and cases no longer stick. And I can do thousands of rounds at a time. Dry firing 60 rounds 3 or 4 days a week I can prepare several months supply at a time.

Return to top of page

27. Wind and Wind Flags

Reading the wind is where I have my least accomplishment. So anything you read here by me about reading the wind you should question. However for the beginning shooter I hope some of what I have to say is a beginning and can be helpful.

First, No one does consistently well in benchrest shooting without reading the wind. And with position shooting and prone it is also important to achieve master classification. Every benchrest shooter should have their own flags that they understand and practice with. Flags can be a simple streamer from a pole made of surveyors tape or an expensive set of flags ordered from one of several manufactures.

First flag poles/stands. Poles have the advantage on uneven ground that they can be placed upright. Poles can be difficult to place in hard ground. The best poles I have seen have an angle bracket at ground level to place your foot to push the pole into the ground. Stands are easier to set up on level hard ground. However they can be hard to level. I have seen some that swivel on the top so even though the stand is uneven the pole can be vertical at the top. I use Smith Victor light Stands. I do not have the swivel at the top so I must place something under the legs to level them. I have also seen some use inexpensive camera tripods that swivel at the top. I also have poles that do not have the step on them so they are hard to install in hard ground. Between the poles and the stands I make do. By the way, I purchased my flag equipment before I have my current experience. Remember, a set of flags may work great at your home range, but your first trip to another range may show their short comings. My first trip to a range with baffles to shoot under I found my flag poles would not go low enough to view. I have shortened one for that purpose now.

Flags. Flags as I said before can be as simple as a streamer on a pole. The pole should have some sort of stand-off so the streamer doesnt wrap around the pole. Other flags pivot at the top of the pole/stand and are on an aluminum or wooden dowel shaft with some sort of tail fin. On the front may be nothing , a daisy wheel or model airplane prop. Ive noticed the better shooters use flags that seem to be light weight. I would guess this is so they are more sensitive to direction changes. I have attempted to lighten my flags for this purpose, to have less weight on the pivot point. But a flag will never be as sensitive as the streamer on its tail. It maybe easier to see slight wind direction differences with the flag.

Number of Flags. I have seen shooters use as few as 1 and as many as 6. Personally I have trouble watching more than 2. I have wondered if the shooters who put out 5 or six actually watch them all or select a few that they feel are telling the most for the particular range conditions.

Watching the flags. The wind closer to you has the most effect on the bullet. So it would seem that the flag closest to you is most important. This is normally true but not always. If the wind is coming towards you, the flag farthest away will show wind changes first (sometimes).

Remember your gun is sighted in for one particular condition (hopefully). Wind changes to that condition will determine where your bullet will go. Say the wind is from 9 oclock at 10 mph. You are getting 100s on an ARA target (doesnt that feel good). The wind increases to 15 mph. The bullet will go right and a little low (towards 4 o'clock). So should you hold left and a little high for that condition? Well, you could shoot the next record bull and see. OR you could go to the sighter and try it there. Maybe the original condition will come back in a few minutes. Maybe you should just wait for a moment and see what happens. This is the interesting part of benchrest shooting, the wind. The condition change I gave is a simple one. The wind could have stayed the same velocity but shifted direction a little. More than likely it will do both at the same time! Dont be afraid to use the sighter. Most top shooters will not change their sights once they start for record. If necessary they will hold off to allow for the change. Many scopes arent ideal. Even the best ones. A one click adjustment may not give you what you want. And then about the time you get sighted in the wind changes back to its original condition. But what if the wind makes a complete reversal? From 10 mph from 9 oclock to 10 mph at 3 oclock. That is a 20 mph change. Do you change your sights then? I dont like to hold off further than the edge of the hundred ring. Most likely in this condition I would wait to see if the original condition comes back. I could go on and on about the endless possibilities. But only practice allows us to understand reading the wind.

Return to top of page

24. Barrel Temp and Point of aim

It is not unusual for a very expensive target grade gun to have a change in Point of Aim (POA) as the temperature of the barrel changes. Of course it varies from being a fraction of an inch off to much more. And from 1 to more shots are required to warm the barrel up. Another similar problem is if a round is left chambered for a long period, in a warm barrel it may change POA. This is due to the powder/primer heating from the barrel. In competition if a round is let to sit to long for some reason, such as the wind comes up, I fire it off the target so the gun can get back in rhythm. This gets the barrel warmed back up and gets rid of a round that is too warm. Trying to get every shot fired with both the barrel and round to optimum temperature, gives the best chance for a good group

Return to top of page

19. Front Rest for benchrest shooting

NOTE: Butch Hongisto is also making a one piece rest. Dick Miller is also making a rear rest similar to the Richie rest which is no longer made. Another popular front rest is made by Cowan 3/19/02

For ARA the shooter is unlimited in choices of rest. One piece rest are very popular.

One-piece rests are getting a little more popular for A. R. A. They are not permitted for other forms of rimfire competition. Currently producing one-piece rest is Dick Miller -- rmillerjr@dave-world.net. Norm Diederich was also producing one awhile back: Norm's phone number: (573) 237-3043 (Hoke)

But more popular are the two piece rest. Especially for shooters who shoot other rimfire disciplines also.

In the two piece rest the Hart and Bald Eagle front bases are most popular. Also the Wichita rest is used. For a top, the Hoehn and Bald Eagle tops are most popular. My personal opinion is the heavier the better. But I use my rest different than anyone else. Look for a page with my personal equipment soon. You'll get a good laugh. These have windage adjustment in the front rest that are not used by most. The stock rides on delron balls that allow a very smooth consistent recoil. A second top can be purchased for use in other disciplines such as IR 50/50.

For a rear rest, the Richie rest is most popular. It has both windage and elevation which is why the windage on the front rest is not used by most. I do use the elevation in the front rest (stem) for adjusting from row to row. I use a Time rear rest that I have converted from 4 leg to three leg, but I understand they are not sold any longer.

IF you want to add the phone numbers for Dick Miller and Ritchie Rests to your "Rests" page they are --- Dick Miller 309/962-8102 (this is his new number in LeRoy, IL after 4/15), Ritchie's number is 210/379-2325 (Bob). NOTE:I have info that Ritchie's area code has changed to 830 (Fred)

additional:

ARA has no restrictions on the rest. You can have a one piece or two piece rest. Most (over 90%) use a hard top. A top with some hard smooth surface such as Delray balls for the gun to ride smoothly on. The other games seem to have restrictions on the top. Such as must have a bag filled with sand for the gun to set on. Some have requirements that the bag be a certain thickness. ..... All front rest that I am aware of have elevation adjustment on the front rest. The stem itself. But most use that for a rough adjustment and have a rest that the rear leg can be used for fine adjustment. Bald Eagle, Sinclair and Ron Hoehn all make windage adjustments on there different tops. But thats not too important to ARA shooters who usually have windage and elevation in their rear rest. Most other games don't allow adjustment in rear rest. But rear rest with adjustment is easier to use than on a front rest. The Richie rear rest is the most popular rear rest with adjustments. Other games restrict you to a Protector or Bald Eagle style rear rest. And of course there is also the one piece rest. If shooting more than one game it may be best to have a two piece rest system that you can have different tops for if required.

Return to top of page

17. Flag setup and view

The field of view is small with 36x. It is impossible to see the flags through the scope for me. I watch the crosshairs with my right eye and flags with my left most of the time. Since my eyes are ambidextrous(G) this is not too difficult for me. Because I use a hard rest the gun is not going to move on a good sturdy concrete bench so sometimes I just line up the cross hairs for a specific condition and watch the flags with both eyes. When the condition is right, trip off the 2oz trigger. Of course this would be difficult with a heavy trigger or soft rest.

See My Shooting Stuff web page for a view similar to what I see with my left eye. My shooting Gear Notice how I line up my three flags so they all can be viewed, I set my flags closer than most. And the distance varies depending on the range and direction of the wind. My thoughts are that the wind in the first 25 yards has the most effect on what is going to happen to the bullet in the last 25 yards. But remember I am not one of the top players in this game.

Return to top of page

14. Adjusting the Time Precision Tuner

I have two Time Precision tuners and they work very well. The Time tuner has graduation marks around its barrel but no numbering. This helps keep its cost down compared to other tuners, however it is hard to return to a previous setting. I suggest screwing the tuner all the way on, and marking that position with a marking pen or as I have done, center punch a dimple at zero, 5, 10, 15 and 20.

To adjust the tuner, first you must select a very calm day, or an indoor range. Some more experienced users tune in a breeze, but I would save that for later. If you don't understand the wind you will only get confused.

Start with the tuner set at zero position of the first revolution. You will find a sweet spot most likely in the first 12 positions. Make sure your gun is clean before you start and fire enough rounds to ensure a layer of lube is in the barrel and the barrel is stable(10-15). Then start shooting five shot groups at zero, 1, two etc. and notice the change in group sizes. With practice, you will sometimes quit on a setting after 3 shots. Finally when you do get a good spot, try to repeat it. Even the worst position can occasionally give a good group. Also, on the good group, some times you will see on either side of it groups with 4 in and one out or 3 in one tiny group and 2 in another.

Also write down what your doing. When you get home you can measure groups and verify the groups you thought were best really are. Then for the lot of ammo tested write down the tuner setting. At times you may have several lots you are shooting and need to know the proper tuner setting for each. Some times different lots will have the same tuner setting, so after I have found a sweet spot for a lot, I will start testing the new lot at that position going up to 2 positions each way will usually find the new lots spot.

I won't guaranty this method will work, but hopefully it will get a new user off to a good start.

Any comments or other methods send to me and I will incorporate.

Return to top of page

13. Lapua Midas L BC

I sent a request to Lapua about the BC for Lapua Midas L . Today (5/11/99) I received the following reply:

Thank you for your good email with interest in the ballistic coefficient of our subject bullet which is 0,13.

I think they are saying the BC is .13

Please see my previous entry #7 for Federal Ultramatch BC.

Return to top of page

12. Rim Thickness Gauging and Weighing

I started using rim thickness gauges back in 1994 when I started shooting BR-50. I was shooting my BSA Martini MKIII off sandbags. At first I used inexpensive ammo. BR-50 was new here in Wichita at the time, and not too many knew what they were doing. I started with PMC target. I bought three bricks and sorted by rim thickness. Then, within each rim thickness group I sorted by weight. This gave a very noticeable improvement to group sizes.

Next, I upgraded to Eley Club and Eley Benchrest Gold (select lots of Eley 10X). My thought was to use the Eley Club for practice and the Eley BRG for matches. Sorting the Eley Club as the PMC Target, I got a slight improvement. The sorted Eley Club shot better than the sorted PMC Target, but not comparable to the Eley BRG. In practice, the sorted Eley Club did not shoot well enough for me to determine if stray shots were me, the gun, the ammo or the wind. As many others had said, shoot in practice the same ammo you shoot in a match.

I then decided to sort the Eley BRG to see if I could improve it further. By this time (late 1995) I had acquired my first Time Precision rimfire benchrest rifle. I was getting about one flyer per 10 shots. By flyer I dont mean completely out of the group, but a shot that made the group significantly larger. I found the rim size of the Eley BRG fairly consistent (.042). So I decided to sort on weight only. This formed a bell curve with 90% of the ammo falling in the middle three groups, much fewer in the 2 groups outside these three, and then a few stragglers outside these. I tested and tested and was not sure if this sorting was helping or not. But I was sure it was not hurting so I continued through 1996. Testing in the winter of 1996-97 I took some of the stragglers on each end of the weight spectrum to an indoor range. I alternately shot heavy then light, expecting to see the bullets go into two groups vertically strung. To my surprise, I shot a very small 10 shot group (5 heavy - 5 light).

From all this I drew the following conclusions. The cheaper the ammo, the more sorting will help. But it will not make it shoot like the expensive ammo. For more expensive ammo such as Lapua Midas, multimatch or Federal 1000B or 900B I think it is a waste of time. Since then, in early 1997 I switched to Lapua Midas L. Midas L eliminated the flyers. In talking to many other benchrest shooters, I have found a few who have tried ammo sorting such as I have. All have said they have given it up as it does not improve the top of the line ammo. A couple have gone so far as to say they think it made things worse.

Return to top of page

11. Ammo Temperature

Temperature of rimfire ammo can be a topic of discussion. How important is it? I have done testing over a chronograph of Lapua Midas in the summer time. I shot groups from ammo at ambient temperature of 80 degrees. Then I repeated the test using ammo of the same lot that had been stored overnight in the refrigerator. Then it was taken to the range in a softsided cooler with and icepack in it. Surprisingly the velocity at 15 feet was the same. However the Standard Deviation (SD) was more than double and the groups were larger.

I personally carry my ammo in a softsided cooler. I keep it in the cab of my truck with me so that it does not get real cold or hot. At the range in the winter time I keep the cooler in the sun. In the summer I keep it in the shade. I have not seen any difference between say 50 to 90 degrees. But to bake or freeze ammo is taking a performance risk.

Return to top of page

5. .22 Long Rifle Wind Deflection

Those unfamiliar with smallbore rifle competition are often surprised to learn that target shooters almost universally use standard velocity ammunition in preference to the many varieties of high and hyper-velocity rounds available. The reason given is the low-velocity ammunitions resistance to wind deflection.

Despite what might seem at first to be the case, wind deflection is not proportional to the time of flight. Instead, it is proportional to the amount of delay in the flight caused by air resistance. The 1145 f.p.s. standard velocity .22 long rifle round takes .287 seconds to go 100 yds., but would take only .262 seconds to cover the same distance in a vacuum. The latter figure is easily found by dividing 300 ft. by the speed of the bullet (1145 f.p.s.), which would remain the same throughout its flight if it were in a vacuum. Thus the delay caused by air resistance is .025 second with the standard velocity ammunition.

The 1335 f.p.s. high velocity ammunition, which will take .259 second to cover 100 yds., would take only .225 second in a vacuum. Thus, the delay for this bullet is .035 second or 37% greater than that of the standard velocity round .22.

The high speed round, then, suffers about 37% more wind deflection than the standard velocity.

This remarkable result is due to the very rapid rate at which air resistance increases with increase in bullet speed in the region near the speed of sound. The .22 rimfires rimfires are the only important rifle cartridges that occupy this speed range, and they are the only ones that show more wind deflection as velocity is increased.

While air resistance always increases when the bullet is shot faster, the rate of this increase is less steep at supersonic velocities. Rifle bullets in general, contrary to the case of rimfires, are made less sensitive to the wind by raising their velocities.
NRA Firearms Fact Book

Return to top of page

Return to Home Page

NOTE: This page is now being maintained from a Linux/Konqueror PC instead of Windows/Internet Explorer and I am using the Quanta Web Developing Tool.

Linux is a relatively new operating system that is more stable than Windows, but installation ease is lagging. So I cannot recommend anyone attempt to install it without a background in computers.

date last updated - February 25, 2006